Grab adhesive – grab and strength test


A while back I did some tests using
some popular grab adhesives. I’m now going to repeat that test because quite a few
people were suggesting other makes which I didn’t actually try in the first
video. So I’ve now got about six or seven different types. We’re going to do two
tests the first test is going to be an initial grab test on this plaster board and to do that we’re going to use some block pavers. So we’re going to see
what the initial grab is like on a vertical surface like that. After we’ve done that we’re then going to do a test where we glue some blocks
down onto a piece of wood we will then test them out using an hydraulic test
rig and see just how much force is required to break the bond between the
two pieces of wood. These are the seven grab adhesives I’m going to use we’ve
got CT1, Gripfill, Adiseal, Serious Stuff, The Works, No More Nails and Pink Grip. We are going to start off with the No More Nails original. So I’m now going to run
four beads of adhesive and then I’m going to take that and I’m
going to push it into position on the plasterboard. I will push it on
there as hard as I can. and then you can see that it does look
like it’s actually sliding down quite a bit. I’m now going to try the Pink Grip and again
I’m going to push that into position. I’ll push that on there as hard as I possibly can and the initial grab on that does look
pretty good it’s not actually slumped down at all. Now Geocell The Works and again that does look like it’s got a
bit of creep on it. It does look like it is sliding down slightly. Now the Adiseal. So I think we can safely say that the
initial grab on that one isn’t all that good. Now the Grip Fill. The wall isn’t looking
too good at the moment we do have the Adiseal and the No More Nails that have slipped down considerably. Now for the Grip Fill. That one just isn’t holding at all it’s
sliding straight down the wall. Now the Serious Stuff. You can see that just isn’t holding
at all. So I’m just going to move that before it
falls. Now I’m going to try the CT1. I’m now going to push that into
position. So I have to say that the initial grab
on all of those adhesives was not all that good especially considering as some of
these are nearly £10 a tube. The only real one that has successfully
stuck without moving very much is the Pink Grip and surprisingly that is one
of the cheapest adhesives that I’ve actually used in this test. The CT1
does seem to be holding now although it did slip down considerably. We’re now
going to do the second part of the test so on each test block I have put the
label. I’m going to put the adhesive on that and then I’m going to screw it down
in that position using the drill through the two holes,
then after the adhesive has set after a couple of days, we’ll remove the screws
and test the amount of hydraulic pressure it takes to remove each block. I hope you have enjoyed watching this video and if you haven’t gone so already please subscribe to the channel.

100 Replies to “Grab adhesive – grab and strength test”

  1. Great video. I always knew NMN was rubbish, now it's Ultimate Handyman proven!!
    Pinkgrip is a third of the cost of some of those other adhesives.
    Will you be doing any testing in wet conditions?

  2. to be honest I learn alot throw this channel and know I work with professional company before I was just handyman. but bs of ultimate handyman I m site supervisor all credit goes to this channel keep it up great work

  3. For initial grab, I use the stick, pull apart, refit method. never had a problem using Gripfill or Pinkgrip. Many of today`s materials don`t like adhesive based products anyway, so you have to go solvent free, and choose suitable methods of additional fixing or support.

  4. Thank you for a intresting test. To buy the best product is important. But still important that the psi is diffrent . have a great week

  5. Very interesting test. I still maintain gripfill is the best rounder, and I've seen it as cheap as Β£1.50. Or I'm just set in my ways!! In America it's called PL premium, and is very popular. Well conducted test as usual

  6. Brilliant testing, thank you. It would have been good to have a look at what was left after the hydraulic test to see if the adhesive or the timber block had torn first.

  7. I always got on well with Sticks like S***t. Tried pink grip on recommendation from a builder and found it terrible! Been using Toolstations Instant Nails lately and its pretty good and only Β£1 ! Without your vids I wouldn't be in business, cheers!

  8. A great test! I have on occasion used two different adhesives for the same application, a high grab, fast drying one for initial hold and a slower curing and far stronger one for lasting strength. Get the best of both this way. From what you tested in this case i'd go for the pink grip plus C-T-1

  9. Impressive tests – CT-1 scored very well in the pressure tests (looks as if wood surface gave way before the glue!

  10. It's come to something when watching a guy glue bricks to a wall is more interesting than anything on TV.

  11. First of all Chaz, love your uploads! Always look forward to them on You Tube. I always have a box of Bostik "Grips like sh*t" in the van, used it for a couple or so years now. It's never failed!!! Even on masonary! Give it some support for a couple of minutes and it does the job perfect on heavey items. Light stuff, never had a problem! Squeeze and forget!

  12. some one like channel 4 or 5 hire this channel it's got useful info and all main stations have nothing on them to watch….until you hire + ultimate handyman that is. great just like the others

  13. I used to use gripfill all the time until I tried pink grip. smoother out if the tube and goes off quicker.

  14. Hi Chaz, great video! Keep up the good work. Quick question: did you have price range when buying these products or was it whatever was available the shop? Also, were all the adhesives approved for working with mansory/concrete/bricks? If you were to select 1 based on the tests – which one would you use? Thanks! Love your videos.

  15. Brilliant video. This should be shown on the shopping channels when they are trying to sell the tubes at Β£10+.

  16. I had more fun watching this video then watching my favorite premier League team Chelsea fc play a winning game I'm impressed with the last one the wood meterial failed before the grip product did I'm pretty suprised about pink grip though intiallaly it gripped better than the others but I thought it would have done a lot better stength wise great video chez

  17. I agree way too much applied, also I would move the block around till you feel the grip has caught. I do small a circle motion till it feels grabbed.

  18. Adiseal have a new formula with higher grab than the Adiseal product tested in this video. This test was carried out on our old formula product which has lower grab than our current products on the market. Also when carrying out a strength test, please carry it out on a metal surface with metal blocks. As you can clearly see in the video the top layer of plywood has come off before the adhesive has failed on some of the products meaning this is not a very good test. The test is like trying to stick something to a painted wall with an adhesive. If the item falls because the paint peels off you can't say the adhesive has failed.

  19. The strength test is a bit pointless if you are going to use plywood for the test. As you can clearly see in the video, the top layer of plywood has come off before the adhesive has failed on some of the products. Its like trying to stick something to a painted wall with an adhesive. If the item falls due to the paint peeling off then you can't say the adhesive has failed. I would suggest carrying the test out on a metal surface.

  20. The strength test is a bit pointless if you are going to use plywood for the test. As you can clearly see in the video, the top layer of plywood has come off before the adhesive has failed on some of the products. Its like trying to stick something to a painted wall with an adhesive. If the item falls due to the paint peeling off then you can't say the adhesive has failed. I would suggest carrying the test out on a metal surface.

  21. I need to put up a wooden curtain rod, 8ft long I screwed it into a plaster wall already and it fell down after 3 months, I couldn't screw it in properly as the plaster is too crumbly, it's a council house built in 1968 and there is a big gap between the plaster and metal lintel. I was thinking of grip fill in the screw holes and push in the wall plugs let in cure for 24 hours then put up the pole? what do u think and any advice would be welcome

  22. I think in a video like this you should have a "re-cap" part at the end where you show all the products and how they performed in both tests.

  23. As with all adhesive bonding, surface pretreatment is no.1 importance. Did you clean/prepare all surfaces the same? Also, the failure mode of each bonded joint gives valuable information (I.e. adhesion failure, cohesive failure, substrate failure, or mixed mode failure). If you see adhesion failure mode (all adhesive left on one side of failed joint), it is likely that surface contamination is to blame.

  24. It's a great video and kudos to you for making it, but I think it could do with a final summary – what are your thoughts after this test? Any product you'd particularly recommend or advise against? Have your tests changed your daily choices when it comes to grab adhesives?

  25. You used enough of it to glue an SUV to a ceiling on those little bricks! Of course most of them are going to slide! Thinner beads should allow the goop to do what it was meant to. A big glob of anything takes much longer to dry or react. In this case if it had adhered to the wall and brick, you have all that slop in between that isn't able to for the most part.

  26. How about a tile adhesive video? I've had good and bad experience with it wikes tile adhesive was terrible but evostick was really good on large tiles.

  27. Hi can u recommend a good grab adhesive for sticking wood to fibreglass ? it's an interior of a yacht and I need to fix timber batterns and can't screw it for obvious reasons

  28. would be good if you had done a test on blocks with say 2x nails or 2 x screws to compare the pressure they take

  29. Great video and great testing, really shows the difference. May I suggest the addition ofΒ a summary table at the end would be helpful and also to always work to the line on the grab test so you could measure slip in mm.

  30. Interesting stuff, I've always gone for grip fill personally. I think it would have been a fairer test if you used the manufacturers instructions regarding the amount of adhesive to apply. Not surprised they slid with that amount of adhesive! Great vid though

  31. Have really enjoyed this videos – am considering trying something other than my old standby Stixall.

  32. Hi are these Polyurethane adhesives? curious to know what the best Polyurethane Construction adhesive may be? gorilla by any chance?

  33. Hello, I need to use it for a wall hanger, do I need to look at the pinkgrip because of the first part of the video, or the one with higher pressure value (CT1 or Geocel)

  34. which grab adhesive would you suggest for a good an secure fixing of timber stud to concrete wall inside. i dont want to take chance of hitting wires that may b hidden.

  35. I watched the above video after searching on Google for something to fix a tricky situation …
    One night last week my wife heard a clatter downstairs, and as she thought we were being burgled she awakened me. On inspection a complete length of 4 metre Gyproc coving had left the ceiling and decided it didn't want to play anymore. It was in good condition, unbroken and lying on the floor. On further inspection behind it in the coving recess were some telephone cables whereby the former house owner had clearly removed the coving and hidden wires behind it, you could see where he had applied a product (unknown) from a gun to the cove.
    My problem was that the coving was considerably heavier than it would have been because of the original Gyproc cement application, thus I needed something trustworthy to hold the cove up … as I was only going to get one chance at it, otherwise it meant buying a load of Gyproc coving just for one piece. I went with your recommendation and bought Nemesis … and glad I did.
    I did the preperation of cleaning everything down and removing crusty bits and got it totally dust-free, both cove and wall. I applied the Nemesis to the wall and ceiling to align with the coving flats and applied it, with the help of my wife. I even had nails and hammer ready to underpin it … but wasn't needed. It immediately attached itself to the substrates and stayed there with no support or aids …. and as said it was quite heavy with the original cement attached, which was immovable without damaging the cornice piece. Many thanks for the video and recommendation, saved me pounds and hours of messing about. 24 hours later it was bonded, caulked and made good with a following coat of emulsion, and as if it never happened. Good stuff, thanks again.

  36. Wouldn't the amount, and thickness of the Sealant, allow for the slipping of the bricks? A thinner application may be a better test…

  37. liquid nails will fail as well even after a week… Loctite premium my exp. will turn and handful of same bricks into a tennis racket imo

  38. Interesting, but Inconclusive! I think you need to use standardised tests, some of those bricks clearly had more adhesive on than others, and you need to standardise how hard/long they're pressed on before the test begins,.
    Equal amounts of adhesive, equal pressure for equal time, then start the timer, too much glue is sometimes detrimental, especially for 'grab' adhesives,
    (I've used 'pink grip' before, it's bloody good, goes off in the tube a bit quick though, so only buy what you need, even sealed tubes can go off within a year, cardboard see, maybe you could spray them with a sealant tho?) ☺

  39. you have to bear in mind these are two different properties and don't go hand in hand. For the best grab the product has to be thick and fast curing … Pink grip definitely for this. but the down side is it skins over fast and unless you break the skin it's useless. CT1 has poor grab but it is thin and gets into all the nooks of your substrate so if you don't need the grab you are much better off with a thinner adhesive. believe it or not bog standard pva adhesion is damn impressive if you have something to pin It together with and leave for 24 hrs

  40. Great vid! I keep on wondering how do you save the remaining stuff in the tube? The Pink Grip is only cheap at 2.49 but it's a shame to waste it. It has a paper tube and not a changeable nozzle. The screw inside the nozzle doesn't seem to work that well. Next person that invents a gadget to stop stuff drying out will be a millionaire…

  41. Wife and myself totally gripped by the fascinating experiment!
    I suppose for most applications, once you get above a certain baseline, the actual increase in strength is somewhat academic but the results are very interesting all the same.

  42. It was interesting to see the results. I used pinkgrip today because it was cheap, so it's reassuring to find it works so well.

  43. excellent test, it's good to know that you dont have to spend Β£10 plus for a good adhesive, the pinkgrip did well. i have heard
    CT1 is very good for plumbing etc but i was not sure how good was it as an adhesive, now you have saved me wasting money on all these so called all bells and whistles adhesives. keep up the good work, i love you videos very helpfull. kevin

  44. I appreciate this is one of your older videos but I have only just discovered you/them. Subscribed

    Top work fella

  45. i am confused that Adiseal did not perform in this video as well as it did in the previous video when on the shear test it outperformed the hydraulic ram.

  46. Just a quick thought on this (great) old video – been using Gripfill for years and can't understand its low score – except that it could be that sometimes it takes a long time to fully cure.

    In the past, I've had to swing a lump hammer to separate timber glues with this stuff – and always the timber breaks first.

  47. It's the way you apply the adhesive. Top tip . Apply lots of "0" instead of a line and when you push it on it pops to secure it to the wall

  48. I don't often use this stuff but when i do i usually get no more nails just because i recognise it, not gonna do that any more… Just gonna get what's cheap

  49. It's great that you have done these tests, and I enjoyed watching them, but the wall test was inconclusive in both videos as the amount of adhesive used was not the same for each block, and you would not just stick it to the wall and walk off you would support it in some way so invalid as a comparison although there were some surprises, the other test was better in the first video as it was a more level playing field, but again varying amounts of adhesive (not sure how you would make each the same) but video 1 was on stainless steel, however video 2 was on a bit of old looking possibly dirty ply which in itself would be different for each piece of wood as it is a natural material and will be strong or weak in different places, most seem to rip the wood as they broke free suggesting a good bond.

    By the way did you try the B&Q own brand off camera? https://www.diy.com/departments/b-q-grab-adhesive-0-31l/214123_BQ.prd I used it recently as I needed some for a stone job and it worked really well Β£2 a pop.

  50. I really find these tests fascinating and i just want to stick things now lol. I found the no more nails really funny as I had visions of someone nailing a brick to a wall πŸ™‚

  51. Odd question do you think any would be any good as a walk over glue trap for a rat….obviously it would have to stay mega tacky to touch

  52. Always Pinkgrip for me. Grip fill is a nightmare is cold conditions. Had it on the radiator for a while and sticks much better.

    Sticks like sh** is super good but too pricey and overkill for skirts and arcs.

  53. Top video, It would be great to see a test of weight load bearing capabilities of the new plasterboard foam based adhesive versus the traditional dot and dot method. Also interested to see hot the new Stick Like pars up with the CT1 etc

  54. πŸ˜†πŸ˜ƒπŸ˜πŸ˜Šβ˜ΊπŸ‘ŒπŸ‘ŒCEMENT CONTACT WORK 100 % BETTER AND FASTER AND NEVER AND NEVER SLIDEπŸ˜†πŸ˜†πŸ˜†πŸ˜†πŸ˜†πŸ˜‰πŸ˜‰πŸ˜‰πŸ˜‰πŸ‘ŒπŸ‘ŒπŸ‘ŒπŸΈπŸΈπŸΈ DOWN JUST WAIT A 5 MINUTES BEFORE PRESSING TOGETHER, BE CAREFULLY 😲😲😲BE SURE TO STICK AT 1Β° TIME BECAUSE IF YOU MAKE A MISTAKE THE 2 PART CAN NOT BE REPOSITIONING

  55. I thought this and some of your other video were great (especially the angle grinder one) …and don't worry its not a TV production ( I actually work for a TV company lol) I have bought a selection of these too. A vid on the guns would be good…the ones from the pound shop are not that good lol

  56. The idea of being able to instantly glue a heavy brick to a wall, and have it stay, is more interesting than anything on TV. I did not think it could be done until I saw him do it. Most readily available glues and grab adhesives are hype, not real sticking power.

    P.S. If you want superglue to take a quick set, spray the joint lightly with accelerator after you glue up the pieces. In the USA using accelerator is the only reliable way to get CA glue (superglue) to really hold anything together.

  57. In my opinion the only one that does live up to it is Sikaflex, it's a shame he didn't use it in this experiment,

  58. Superb. I love these forensic DIY videos and I can't thank you (and people like you) for taking the time to make them. However.. I've worked in very heavy engineering all my life and one of the many things that drives me a bit nuts is folks using too much adhesive. For example.. I used to see guys building cranes and SOAKING bolts in Loctite. There is no need to do this. A few small spots of Loctite gets the job done without a pool of blue stuff on the floor.

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